In 1997, Chinese troops in the Xinjiang town of Ghulja ... of our last days in Kashgar, Mahmati, Ling and I took a government-licensed tour through a tiny section of the Old City—about 10 ...

“The old town is the heart and soul of Kashgar, with a long history, rich culture and unique architecture,” said an Uyghur tour guide as she whisked visitors, mainly from China’s Han ...