Behind the cold glass, the 40s stand at attention like diabolical soldiers, their manly brand names stenciled across specious, stark labels: St. Ides and St. Ides Ice, King Cobra, Old English 800 ...

rather than malt liquor, they tend to be stronger than hard ... Although, this isn't to say that hard seltzers lack dimensionality. Lone River Ranch Water (4% ABV), for instance, is a hard seltzer ...